You can hatch goose eggs at home with a reliable Egg Incubator and steady settings. Keep the temperature close to 99.5°F and the humidity around 50–55% for most of the incubation. Goose eggs hatch best when you follow clear steps and check air-cell growth every few days. Many beginners get good results, but not every egg will hatch, even if you are careful. Most backyard keepers see about 40% to 80% of their eggs hatch. Common mistakes include using old eggs, setting eggs the wrong way, or not turning them enough. You can use the Quick Reference Card with proven numbers and write down your results. This helps you avoid repeat mistakes and give your goslings a stronger start.
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Most common mistakes:
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Storing eggs the wrong way
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Using the wrong temperature
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Too little or too much humidity
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Not turning eggs enough
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Goose egg incubation is harder than chicken eggs. You can do well with good habits and careful checks.
Key Takeaways
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Keep the temperature at 99.5°F for goose egg incubation.
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Make sure humidity stays between 50% and 55% most of the time. This helps the air cell grow the right way.
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Turn the eggs at least four times every day. This stops embryos from sticking to the shell.
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Watch how much weight the eggs lose. Try for 12% to 14% weight loss by lockdown. This helps more eggs hatch.
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Use a hygrometer to check humidity often. Change humidity if you need to, especially in the last days before hatching.
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Candle the eggs often to see if embryos are growing. Check the air cell too.
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Be patient when eggs start to hatch. Wait 24–48 hours after pipping before you help a gosling that is struggling.
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Write down details about each hatch. This helps you learn and get better at incubating eggs.
Goose Egg Incubation vs. Other Poultry
Shell Thickness and Timeline Differences
Goose eggs have much thicker shells than chicken or duck eggs. Shell thickness means the hard outer layer of the egg. This layer protects the growing gosling inside. Goose eggs usually measure between 0.44 and 0.55 millimeters thick. The blunt end of a goose egg is about 0.48 mm, and the middle is about 0.51 mm. Thicker shells help keep the egg strong and safe during incubation. They also slow down how air and water move in and out. This means you need to pay close attention to humidity and turning.
When you choose eggs for hatching, look for ones with strong, even shells. Thicker shells can help more goslings hatch. If you see cracks or thin spots, those eggs may not do well. The shell’s thickness affects how the embryo breathes and grows. If the shell is too thin or too thick, it can cause problems for the developing gosling.
The timeline for goose egg incubation is also different from other poultry. Here is a table to help you compare:
| Type of Egg |
Incubation Period |
|---|---|
| Chicken |
21 days |
| Duck |
28 days |
| Goose |
28 to 35 days |
Most goose eggs hatch in 30 to 32 days, but some breeds may hatch a few days earlier or later. Lighter breeds often hatch sooner, and heavier breeds may take longer. Always check for signs of progress, like air-cell growth and embryo movement, instead of only watching the calendar.
Humidity Needs for Goose Eggs
Goose eggs need more careful humidity control than chicken eggs. Humidity means the amount of water vapor in the air. Because goose eggs are large and have thick shells, they lose water more slowly. You should keep the humidity at 50% to 55% for most of the incubation. This helps the egg lose the right amount of weight and lets the air cell grow. The air cell is the empty space at the wide end of the egg. It gets bigger as the egg loses water.
When you reach the last few days before hatching, raise the humidity to 70% to 75%. This keeps the inner membrane soft so the gosling can break out easily. If the humidity is too low, the membrane can dry out and trap the gosling. If it is too high, the gosling may drown or have trouble hatching. Use a hygrometer to check humidity levels. Weigh your eggs every few days to make sure they are losing about 12% to 14% of their starting weight by the time you stop turning them.
What to Expect Before Your First Hatch
You may face some challenges during your first goose egg incubation. Here is a table of common issues and what they mean:
| Challenge/Outcome |
Description |
|---|---|
| Poor Temperature Control |
Temperature swings can delay hatching or kill the embryo. A stable incubator is crucial. |
| Humidity Fluctuations |
Incorrect humidity can trap goslings or lead to soft shells. Use a hygrometer for monitoring. |
| Turning Mistakes |
Inconsistent egg turning can cause embryos to stick or get damaged. Consistency is key. |
| Assisting the Hatch Prematurely |
It's important to wait before helping a struggling gosling to avoid complications. |
| Successful Hatching |
Proper management leads to successful hatching and the need for subsequent care of goslings. |
You should expect some eggs not to hatch, even if you do everything right. Most backyard keepers see hatch rates between 40% and 80%. You can improve your odds by following the numbers for temperature, humidity, and turning. Watch for changes in the air cell and movement inside the egg. Each hatch teaches you more. With practice, you will get better results.
Tip: Goose egg incubation is less forgiving than chicken eggs, but you can succeed with careful habits and good tools. Always keep records and learn from each hatch.
Goose Egg Incubation Timeline
Setting to Mid-Incubation Milestones
You start goose egg incubation by placing clean, fertile eggs in your incubator. Set the temperature to 99.5°F and keep the humidity between 50% and 55%. Turn the eggs at least four times each day. This helps the embryo develop evenly and prevents it from sticking to the shell. Use a kitchen scale to weigh each egg at the start and every three to four days. Aim for a total weight loss of 12% to 14% by the time you reach lockdown. Trace the air cell with a pencil during candling. The air cell should grow larger and slant as the days pass.
Here is a table showing the main milestones and targets:
| Stage |
Days |
Humidity (%) |
Weight Loss (%) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Incubation |
1–27 |
50–55 |
12–14 |
| Lockdown |
28 |
70–75 |
12–14 |
| Hatching |
28–35 |
70–75 |
12–14 |
Tip: Always check for veining and movement inside the egg during candling. Remove any eggs that show no signs of development.
Lockdown and Hatch Window
Lockdown means you stop turning the eggs and raise the humidity. For goose eggs, lockdown starts around day 28. Increase the humidity to 70%–75%. This keeps the inner membrane soft and helps the gosling hatch safely. Do not open the incubator unless you must. The hatch window for most breeds is between day 28 and day 35. Lighter breeds, like Chinese geese, may hatch closer to day 28. Heavier breeds, such as Toulouse or Embden, often hatch between day 32 and day 35.
Here is a table comparing lockdown and hatch windows for different poultry:
| Poultry Type |
Lockdown Day |
Total Incubation Days |
|---|---|---|
| Goose |
Day 28 |
28–35 |
| Chicken |
Day 18 |
21 |
Note: Goose egg incubation takes longer than chicken eggs. Each breed has its own timeline. Watch for internal pipping and tapping sounds in the last few days.
Early, On-Time, and Late Hatches
You may see goslings hatch early, on time, or late. Early hatches often happen with lighter breeds or warmer incubators. On-time hatches are most common when you keep temperature and humidity steady. Late hatches may occur with heavier breeds or cooler conditions. Climate and breed both affect hatch timing. Early-hatched goslings often grow faster if feeding conditions are good. Late hatches can still be healthy, but you should check for signs of distress.
Here is a table showing average incubation times for popular breeds:
| Breed |
Average Incubation Time |
Recommended Humidity (Final 3 Days) |
Egg Weight Loss Target |
|---|---|---|---|
| Chinese Goose |
28–30 days |
70% |
12–14% |
| Embden Goose |
30–32 days |
75% |
10–12% |
| Toulouse Goose |
32–34 days |
75% |
10–11% |
| Cape Barren Goose |
35 days |
70% |
13% |
Tip: Keep records of hatch dates and conditions. This helps you improve your results each season. Goose egg incubation is less forgiving than chicken eggs, but you can succeed with careful monitoring and good tools.
Temperature Control for Goose Egg Incubation
Recommended Setpoint and Range
You must keep the temperature steady when hatching goose eggs. The best temperature for a forced-air incubator is 99.5°F. You can use a range from 99°F to 100°F if your incubator stays steady. Forced-air incubators have fans that move air around the eggs. This helps keep the temperature the same everywhere. Still-air incubators do not have fans. You need to set the temperature a bit higher and measure at egg height.
Here is a table that shows the best temperature ranges for each incubator type:
| Incubator Type |
Recommended Temperature Range (Celsius) |
|---|---|
| Forced-Air |
37.5°C - 37.8°C |
| Still-Air |
38.0°C - 38.6°C |
If you are not sure what kind of incubator you have, check the manual or look for a fan inside. Always set the temperature before you put in the eggs. Use a digital thermometer for better results. Keeping the temperature steady helps goslings grow strong and healthy.
Tip: Write down your temperature every day. This helps you find problems early and do better next time.
Risks of Overheating vs. Cooling
It is very important to control the temperature when hatching goose eggs. Overheating can hurt the embryos fast. If the temperature goes above 100°F for a few hours, embryos can die or hatch with problems. Cooling is not as risky for short times. If the temperature drops below 99°F for a few hours, most embryos will be okay. Short cooling times can even copy what a broody goose does when she leaves the nest.
Here are some risks you should know:
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Overheating can make goslings hatch early, be weak, or die.
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Cooling for a short time is safer but can make hatching late.
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Big temperature changes can lower how many eggs hatch.
Keep your incubator away from sunlight, heaters, or cold air. Check the temperature a few times each day, especially if the weather changes.
Note: Goose eggs are harder to hatch than chicken eggs. Controlling the temperature well gives you a better chance for healthy goslings.
Checking Thermometer Accuracy
You need to check your thermometer to make sure it is correct. Even a small mistake can change your hatch results. Try these ways to test and fix your thermometer:
| Method Description |
Source |
|---|---|
| Use a dish with water at 100°F and compare different thermometers. |
Backyard Chickens |
| Calibrate with a mercury thermometer at the same height as the digital one. |
Pheasant |
| Use two thermometers and hygrometers in different spots to check if they match. |
Egg Bloom |
Put your thermometer at egg height inside the incubator. Test it before you add eggs. If the thermometers show different numbers, use the average or pick the best one. Check your thermometer every week while the eggs are incubating.
Tip: EggBloom’s goose egg incubation tutorial has more tips on testing and fixing thermometers.
You can hatch goose eggs well if you use good habits and check things carefully. Controlling the temperature is the most important part for healthy goslings. Learn from each hatch and get better every season.
Humidity and Weight Loss
Main Incubation Humidity Targets
You need to control humidity carefully during goose egg incubation. Humidity means the amount of water vapor in the air inside your incubator. The right humidity helps each egg lose water at a steady rate. This water loss lets the air cell grow. The air cell is the empty space at the wide end of the egg. It gets bigger as the egg loses water, and it is important for the gosling to breathe before hatching.
For most of the incubation period (days 1–27), keep the humidity between 50% and 55%. This range supports a gradual weight loss of about 12–14% by the time you reach lockdown. If humidity is too low, eggs lose water too fast. If humidity is too high, eggs lose too little water. Both problems can lower your hatch rate.
Here is a table showing how humidity levels affect weight loss and hatch rates:
| Humidity Level |
Weight Loss Target |
Impact on Hatch Rates |
|---|---|---|
| 50% - 55% |
12-14% |
Good hatch rates for most breeds |
| 35% - 45% |
15-16% |
Can improve hatching in dry climates |
Tip: Use a hygrometer to check humidity. Adjust water trays or vents to keep levels steady.
Lockdown Humidity and Air Cell Growth
Lockdown is the final stage of goose egg incubation. You stop turning the eggs and raise the humidity. Lockdown starts around day 28. Increase humidity to 70–75%. This higher humidity keeps the shell membrane soft. The shell membrane is the thin layer just inside the shell. If it stays soft and floppy, the gosling can break out easily. If it gets stiff and white, the gosling may get stuck.
You can check air cell growth by candling. Candling means shining a light through the egg to see inside. The air cell should be large and slanted at lockdown. If you see a translucent and floppy membrane, humidity is good. If the membrane looks white and stiff, raise the humidity.
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Raise humidity by 5–10% during lockdown.
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Aim for 70–75% humidity for hatching.
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Look for a floppy, translucent membrane at the wide end of the egg.
Note: Different goose breeds may need small changes in timing. Always watch air cell growth and embryo movement.
Tracking Weight Loss and Adjusting
You should track egg weight loss during goose egg incubation. Weight loss means how much water the egg loses over time. This helps you know if humidity is right. Start by weighing each egg before you set it in the incubator. Use a kitchen scale for best results.
Follow these steps to track weight loss:
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Weigh each egg at the start.
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Weigh again every 3–4 days.
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Write down the numbers and calculate the percentage lost.
Aim for a total weight loss of 12–14% by lockdown. If eggs lose less than 12%, lower humidity. If eggs lose more than 14%, raise humidity. The weight loss curve is the pattern of weight change over time. A steady curve means humidity is correct.
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Measure initial egg weight.
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Weigh eggs at day 18 and at lockdown.
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Calculate weight loss as a percentage of the starting weight.
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Aim for 0.6–0.7% daily weight loss.
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Minimum weight loss is 10% for good hatchability.
Start opening the air inlet after four days to prevent too much humidity. Keep humidity low enough in the final days to reach the 12–14% weight loss target.
Tip: EggBloom’s goose egg incubation tutorial has more details on tracking weight loss and adjusting humidity.
You can improve your hatch rates by watching humidity, air cell growth, and weight loss. Careful records help you learn from each hatch.
Turning, Positioning, Cooling, Misting
Turning Frequency and When to Stop
Turning means gently rotating each egg several times a day. This keeps the embryo from sticking to the shell and helps it grow evenly. You should turn goose eggs at least four times a day. Turning five or six times is even better. If you use an automatic turner, it will move the eggs for you. If you turn by hand, try to space out the turns during the day.
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Turn eggs regularly for the first 27 days of goose egg incubation.
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The minimum is three turns a day, but aim for four to six.
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Stop turning the eggs about three days before the expected hatch date. For most breeds, this means stopping at day 28.
Tip: Mark one side of each egg with an "X" and the other with an "O" using a pencil. This helps you keep track of turning.
Turning is very important early in incubation. When you stop turning, the gosling gets into position for hatching.
Egg Orientation in Incubator
Egg orientation means how you place the eggs inside the incubator. For goose eggs, you can lay them on their sides or stand them upright. If you lay them sideways, make sure the large end (where the air cell is) tilts slightly higher. If you use an upright rack, always keep the air cell at the top.
| Orientation Method |
How to Place the Egg |
Best For |
|---|---|---|
| Sideways |
Large end slightly up |
Most small incubators |
| Upright |
Air cell at top |
Racks or large incubators |
Check that eggs do not touch the incubator walls. Good air flow helps keep temperature and humidity even. Always handle eggs gently to avoid cracks.
Note: Different goose breeds may have slightly different needs. Watch air-cell growth and embryo movement, not just the calendar.
Daily Cooling and Misting Routine
Cooling means taking the eggs out of the incubator for a short time each day. Misting means spraying the eggshells with lukewarm water. Both steps copy what a broody goose does when she leaves the nest and returns with damp feathers.
Start cooling and misting around day 7. Increase the cooling time as the eggs develop:
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From week 2, cool eggs for 10 minutes each day.
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From week 3, cool eggs for 15 minutes each day.
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For week 4, cool eggs for 20 minutes each day.
After cooling, lightly mist the eggs with lukewarm water. This helps the eggs lose water at the right rate and supports healthy air-cell growth.
The cooling helps in three ways:
It increases water loss, which helps reach the target weight loss.
It improves gas exchange, letting out carbon dioxide.
It removes extra heat as the embryo grows.
A 2019 study found that a good cooling routine can improve hatch rates and reduce waste. Cooling is most important after day 15, when the embryo starts making its own heat.
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Always return eggs to the incubator right after cooling and misting.
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In dry climates, mist a bit more. In humid rooms, keep misting light.
Tip: Track your cooling and misting routine in a notebook. This helps you learn what works best for your goose egg incubation.
If you want more details, EggBloom’s in-depth goose egg incubation tutorial has step-by-step guides for cooling and misting.
Step-by-Step Goose Egg Incubation Routine
Pre-Incubation Setup and Egg Selection
Start your goose egg incubation journey with careful preparation. Good results begin before you even set the eggs in the incubator.
Step 1: Gather Supplies
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Forced-air incubator with digital controls
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Accurate thermometer and hygrometer
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Kitchen scale for weighing eggs
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Pencil for marking eggs
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Clean spray bottle for misting
Step 2: Select and Store Eggs
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Choose clean, uncracked eggs with even, thick shells.
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Store eggs at cool room temperature (not in the fridge) if you plan to hatch them.
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Keep the large end slightly up.
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Tilt or gently turn stored eggs a few times each day.
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Set eggs within 7–10 days for best results.
Step 3: Prepare the Incubator
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Clean and disinfect the incubator.
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Set temperature to 99.5°F (37.5°C) for forced-air models.
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Adjust humidity to 50–55% for the main incubation phase.
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Run the incubator for several hours to stabilize settings.
Step 4: Mark and Weigh Eggs
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Use a pencil to mark one side of each egg with an “X” and the other with an “O.”
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Weigh each egg and record the starting weight.
Tip: Marking eggs helps you track turning. Weighing eggs lets you monitor water loss.
Daily and Weekly Incubation Tasks
You need a steady routine for goose egg incubation. Follow these steps each day and week to give your goslings the best chance.
Daily Checklist
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Check Temperature and Humidity
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Temperature: 99.5°F (acceptable range: 99–100°F)
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Humidity: 50–55% (main phase)
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Turn Eggs
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Turn eggs at least 4 times per day (aim for 4–6).
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Use the “X” and “O” marks to keep track.
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Cooling and Misting (from Day 7)
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Remove eggs for 10–15 minutes daily.
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Lightly mist with lukewarm water before returning to the incubator.
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Weekly Tasks
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Weigh Eggs
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Weigh each egg every 3–4 days.
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Record the weight and calculate percentage lost.
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Candle Eggs
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Candle at day 7–10 for veining and embryo movement.
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Candle again at day 14–18 for growth and air cell size.
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Final candling at day 24–26 to check air cell and embryo.
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Settings Overview Table
| Phase |
Key Tasks |
Settings/Targets |
|---|---|---|
| Pre-Incubation |
Select, store, mark, and weigh eggs |
Store <10 days, large end up |
| Days 1–27 |
Turn, monitor temp/humidity, weigh, candle |
99.5°F, 50–55% RH, 4–6 turns/day |
| Days 7–27 |
Daily cooling and misting |
10–15 min cooling, light mist |
| Day 28 (Lockdown) |
Stop turning, raise humidity |
70–75% RH, stop turning |
| Days 28–35 (Hatch) |
Monitor, avoid opening incubator |
99–100°F, 70–75% RH |
Note: RH means relative humidity. Always use Quick Reference Card numbers for best results.
Lockdown Prep and Hatch Day Actions
Lockdown is the final stage of goose egg incubation. You must prepare carefully to help your goslings hatch safely.
Step 1: Prepare for Lockdown (Day 28)
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Stop turning eggs.
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Remove automatic turners if used.
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Raise humidity to 70–75%.
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Keep temperature steady at 99–100°F.
Step 2: Monitor Closely
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Watch for internal pipping (when the gosling breaks into the air cell).
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Listen for tapping sounds.
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Avoid opening the incubator unless necessary.
Step 3: Hatch Day Actions
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When you see the first external pip (crack in the shell), check humidity and increase if needed.
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Most goslings hatch within 24–48 hours after pipping.
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If a gosling has not zipped (made a line around the shell) by the next day, candle the egg to check for movement.
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Only assist if you see clear signs of distress. If you see blood when helping, stop and wait a few hours.
Be patient. Goslings may take time to hatch. Rushing can harm them.
Worked Example: Predicting Your Hatch
Suppose you set 10 goose eggs in your incubator. The Quick Reference Card says most backyard keepers hatch 40–80% of their eggs.
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If you hatch 40%, you get 4 healthy goslings.
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If you hatch 80%, you get 8 healthy goslings.
| Eggs Set |
Expected Hatch Rate |
Likely Healthy Goslings |
|---|---|---|
| 10 |
40% |
4 |
| 10 |
60% |
6 |
| 10 |
80% |
8 |
Keep records of your results. Each hatch teaches you more about goose egg incubation.
Checklist for Success
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Select and store eggs properly
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Set up and stabilize incubator
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Mark and weigh eggs
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Turn eggs 4–6 times daily
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Monitor temperature and humidity
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Cool and mist eggs daily (from day 7)
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Weigh and candle eggs weekly
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Stop turning and raise humidity at lockdown
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Watch and wait during hatch
Goose egg incubation is less forgiving than chicken eggs. With good habits and careful checks, you can improve your odds and enjoy healthy goslings. For more details, see EggBloom’s in-depth goose egg incubation tutorial.
Troubleshooting Goose Egg Incubation
Goose egg incubation can feel challenging, especially when you see low hatch rates or weak goslings. You can improve your results by understanding common problems and making small changes. Each hatch teaches you more about what works best for your flock.
Low Hatch Rates and Early Deaths
Low hatch rates mean that fewer eggs hatch than you expect. Early deaths happen when embryos stop developing in the first weeks. You can spot these problems by candling eggs and keeping good records.
Common causes of low hatch rates and early embryo deaths include:
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Not turning eggs enough or turning at the wrong angle. This can cause embryos to stick to the shell or develop in the wrong position.
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Temperature that is too high or too low. Even small changes can harm embryos.
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Poor ventilation. Eggs need fresh air, especially after day 10.
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High humidity. Too much moisture can block gas exchange and cause embryos to drown.
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Storing eggs in hot or cold places before setting them in the incubator.
Research shows that wider egg turning angles help reduce late embryo deaths. Turning eggs at least four times a day, as the Quick Reference Card suggests, prevents malpositioning and helps embryos absorb nutrients. If you see many clear eggs or dead embryos at candling, check your turning schedule and temperature settings.
You can also improve hatchability by keeping the incubator at 99.5°F (37.5°C) and humidity at 50–55% for most of the incubation. Make sure you weigh eggs every 3–4 days. If eggs lose less than 12% of their weight by lockdown, lower the humidity next time.
Here is a table to help you troubleshoot:
| Symptom |
Likely Cause |
Corrective Actions for Next Hatch |
|---|---|---|
| Many clear eggs at candling |
Infertile eggs or poor storage |
Use fresher eggs, store at cool room temperature |
| Early embryo deaths |
Overheating, poor turning, bad ventilation |
Keep temp at 99.5°F, turn 4–6 times/day, open vents after day 10 |
| Sticky embryos, small air cell |
High humidity, not enough weight loss |
Lower humidity to 50–55%, track weight loss |
| Malpositioned embryos |
Not enough turning, wrong angle |
Turn eggs 4–6 times/day, lay eggs sideways with large end up |
| Rotten or exploded eggs |
Old or dirty eggs, poor sanitation |
Set only clean eggs, wash hands before handling |
Tip: Always use a kitchen scale to check egg weight loss. This helps you spot humidity problems early.
Late Hatches and Weak Goslings
Late hatches happen when goslings take longer than 35 days to emerge. Weak goslings may struggle to stand or breathe after hatching. You can help by watching the hatch closely and acting only when needed.
Assisted hatching can save weak goslings, but you should only help if you see clear signs of distress. For example, if a gosling pips but does not progress for over 24 hours, you can gently check for movement. If you see blood, stop and wait. Always keep humidity high (70–75%) during lockdown to prevent the membrane from drying out.
You should also monitor the hatching process. Make sure goslings do not block their air supply. If you see many late or weak goslings, check your temperature records. Cooler incubators can delay hatching. Warmer settings can cause early but weak hatches.
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Watch for internal pipping and tapping sounds in the last days.
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Avoid opening the incubator during hatch unless you must.
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Only assist if the gosling is truly stuck and not making progress.
Note: Different goose breeds may hatch at different times. Always watch air-cell growth and embryo movement, not just the calendar.
Improving Results Next Season
You can improve your goose egg incubation results each year by making small changes and keeping good records. Start by weighing eggs weekly. Aim for a total weight loss of 12–14% by lockdown. For a 150-gram egg, this means losing about 18–21 grams by day 28.
Try cooling and misting eggs daily from day 7 to day 27. Cooling means taking eggs out of the incubator for 10–15 minutes. Misting means spraying the shells with lukewarm water. These steps help eggs lose water at the right rate and support healthy air-cell growth.
Follow these steps for better results:
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Weigh eggs at set, then every 3–4 days.
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Adjust humidity to reach the target weight loss.
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Cool and mist eggs daily after day 7.
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Turn eggs at least four times a day.
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Keep temperature steady at 99.5°F and humidity at 50–55% until lockdown.
Keep a notebook for each hatch. Write down what worked and what did not. Over time, you will see patterns and improve your odds.
If you want more details, EggBloom’s in-depth goose egg incubation tutorial has step-by-step guides and troubleshooting tips.
Safety, Hygiene, and Welfare
Egg Cleaning and Handling
You need to keep your eggs clean and handle them safely to protect your flock and yourself. Dirty eggs can carry bacteria that harm goslings and people. Always wash your hands with soap and running water after touching eggs or birds. Supervise children when they help with poultry chores, since they face a higher risk for illness.
When you collect eggs, do it at least once a day. If you find soiled eggs, gently clean them with warm water and dry them right away. Do not use cold water, because it can pull bacteria into the egg through tiny pores. Discard any cracked eggs, since bacteria can enter easily. If you plan to eat the eggs instead of hatching them, store clean eggs in a carton in the refrigerator at 40°F or below to keep them fresh and slow bacterial growth.
You should use shoes just for poultry care to prevent bringing germs into your home. Keep nesting areas clean and dry. This reduces the risk of contamination and keeps your birds healthy.
Basic Hygiene Checklist:
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Wash hands after handling eggs or birds
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Collect and clean eggs daily
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Use warm water for cleaning, never cold
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Discard cracked eggs
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Store eggs in the refrigerator at 40°F or below if they are for eating
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Use designated shoes for poultry chores
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Keep nesting areas clean and dry
Tip: Avoid washing eggs unless necessary. The natural coating helps protect against germs.
When to Help a Gosling Hatch
You may feel tempted to help a gosling hatch if it struggles. Helping too soon can cause harm. Goslings often take 24–48 hours to hatch after the first crack, called "external pipping." Wait and watch for signs of progress, such as tapping sounds or movement inside the egg.
Opening the incubator during lockdown can lower humidity and make membranes dry out. Dry membranes can trap goslings and lower hatch rates. Only open the incubator if you see clear signs of distress, like no progress for over 24 hours after pipping. If you decide to help, stop if you see blood and wait a few hours before trying again.
Safe Hatching Tips:
-
Wait for 24–48 hours after external pipping
-
Watch for movement and tapping sounds
-
Open incubator only if necessary
-
Assist only if gosling is truly stuck
-
Stop if you see blood
Note: Goose egg incubation is less forgiving than chicken eggs. Careful timing and observation help you avoid problems.
Planning for Extra Goslings
You may hatch more goslings than you expect. Plan ahead to give them a safe and healthy start. Goslings need warmth, space, and good food. Use a heat source to keep the brooding area at 90°F for the first week. Lower the temperature by 5°F each week.
| Age |
Temperature (°F) |
Feeding Recommendations |
|---|---|---|
| 0–7 days |
90 |
Starter feed |
| 7–14 days |
85 |
Continue starter feed, introduce greens |
| 14–21 days |
80 |
Gradually introduce grower feed |
Create a warm, safe environment with good ventilation and safe bedding. Use 20% non-medicated starter or grower crumbles. Add greens like romaine lettuce and kale. Switch to waterfowl feed at about three weeks old.
“Early care plays a significant role in the healthy development of goslings. Monitoring their health, ensuring they have enough space to move, and providing a balanced diet are key factors.”
Geese are flock animals. They do better with a buddy. If you hatch only one, consider finding a companion.
“Geese are flock animals, they do better with more than one, please consider a buddy for your baby.”
You can find more tips and step-by-step guides in EggBloom’s in-depth goose egg incubation tutorial.
Goose Egg Incubation FAQs and Resources
Common Questions Answered
You may have many questions about goose egg incubation. Here are answers to the most common ones, based on proven numbers and best practices.
| Aspect |
Details |
|---|---|
| Importance of Conditions |
You need stable temperature and humidity for healthy embryo growth and successful hatching. |
| Weight Loss |
Goose eggs should lose about 13% of their starting weight by days 24–27. Use a kitchen scale to check. |
| Humidity Levels |
Keep humidity at 50–55% for most breeds. For African and Chinese geese, aim for 45–55%. Raise humidity to 70–75% for the last few days. |
| Candling |
Candle eggs every few days. Look for veins and movement. Candle daily in the final week to watch for pipping. |
| Hatching Process |
Goslings follow a set pattern: internal pipping, external pipping, then hatching. Wait for progress before helping. |
| Final Positioning |
Place eggs with the blunt end (wide end) slightly higher. This copies how a goose nests. |
| Intervention |
Do not help goslings hatch too soon. Wait for signs of distress before assisting. |
Frequently Asked Questions:
-
How long does goose egg incubation take?
Most goose eggs hatch in 28–35 days. Lighter breeds hatch sooner, heavier breeds later. -
What temperature should I use?
Set your forced-air incubator to 99.5°F. Keep it between 99–100°F for best results. -
How often should I turn the eggs?
Turn eggs at least four times a day. Six times is even better. -
How do I know if humidity is right?
Weigh eggs every 3–4 days. Aim for 12–14% total weight loss by lockdown. Use a hygrometer to check humidity. -
When should I stop turning eggs?
Stop turning at day 28 or about three days before the expected hatch. -
Should I help a gosling hatch?
Wait at least 24 hours after external pipping. Only help if the gosling is truly stuck and not making progress.
Tip: Goose egg incubation is less forgiving than chicken eggs. You can succeed with careful habits and regular checks.
Where to Find More Tips
You can find more advice and step-by-step guides in EggBloom’s in-depth goose egg incubation tutorial. This resource covers troubleshooting, breed differences, and advanced techniques.
Quick Tips for Success:
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Monitor air-cell growth and embryo movement, not just the calendar.
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Keep records for each hatch. Write down what works and what does not.
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Adjust humidity and temperature based on breed and room conditions.
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Use good tools and clean hands to protect your flock.
Note: Each goose breed may have a slightly different timeline. Watch your eggs closely and learn from every hatch.
If you want to improve your odds, use proven numbers and routines. Goose egg incubation takes patience and practice. With each hatch, you gain more skill and confidence.
Data authenticity note: The temperatures, humidity ranges, hatch-rate ranges, and weight-loss targets in this guide are based on typical incubator manuals, standard waterfowl practice, non-branded poultry extension materials, and records from small backyard flocks. Actual results can vary with goose breed, incubator model, room conditions, and flock health. Always follow your incubator’s manual and consult local experts or an avian veterinarian if you notice serious health problems or repeated hatch failures.
You can do well with goose egg incubation if you follow these main steps. Set the temperature to 99.5°F. Keep the humidity between 50% and 55% until lockdown. Turn the eggs four to six times each day. Try to get the eggs to lose 12% to 14% of their weight by day 28. Write down your results so you can learn from every hatch. For extra help, check out groups like the American Poultry Association and 4-H programs. You can also join online groups to talk about your experiences and ask questions. Each year, you will get better and feel more confident.
FAQ
How long does goose egg incubation take?
Most goose eggs hatch in 28–35 days. Lighter breeds hatch closer to 28 days. Heavier breeds may take up to 35 days. Always watch for air-cell growth and embryo movement, not just the calendar.
What temperature should I use for goose eggs?
Set your forced-air incubator to 99.5°F (37.5°C). Keep the temperature steady between 99°F and 100°F. Use a digital thermometer at egg height for best accuracy.
How often should I turn goose eggs?
Turn goose eggs at least four times each day. Six turns work even better. Turning keeps the embryo from sticking to the shell and helps it grow evenly.
What humidity level is best for goose eggs?
Keep humidity at 50–55% for most of incubation. Raise it to 70–75% during the last few days, called lockdown. Use a hygrometer to check levels.
How much weight should goose eggs lose during incubation?
Goose eggs should lose about 12–14% of their starting weight by lockdown. Weigh each egg every 3–4 days. Adjust humidity if weight loss is too high or too low.
When should I stop turning the eggs?
Stop turning goose eggs at day 28 or about three days before the expected hatch. This helps the gosling get into the right position for hatching.
Should I help a gosling hatch if it struggles?
Wait at least 24 hours after the first crack, called external pipping. Only help if the gosling is truly stuck and not making progress. If you see blood, stop and wait.
Where can I find more tips and troubleshooting help?
You can find step-by-step guides and troubleshooting in EggBloom’s in-depth goose egg incubation tutorial. Join online groups for more advice and to share your results.
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